Running Starlink on battery power: the watt-hour math and what it covers

Official power figures

We read Starlink’s own specification sheets (PDFs on api.starlink.com). The two we opened are for the Mini and the Standard 4 X. As of Nov 12, 2026:

Model	Average power	Input, per the sheet
Mini	25 to 40 W	12 to 48 V, 60 W; or USB PD 100 W (20 V / 5 A) minimum with Starlink’s USB-C to barrel jack cable
Standard 4 X	75 to 100 W	AC power supply, 100 to 240 V, 2.5 A

Notes:

• We did not open sheets for other Starlink models. Check Starlink’s site for yours.
• The sheets do not say where the wattage is measured, at the dish or at the wall.
• Other pages online quote different Mini ranges, such as 20 to 40 W. We use the sheet.
• The Standard 4 X kit includes a router. The sheet gives no separate router wattage that we could find, so allow extra.

The formula

Runtime in hours = (battery watt-hours x efficiency) / load in watts

Efficiency is the share of stored energy that reaches the dish. Each conversion step loses some, for example the inverter that turns battery DC into AC. Inverters also draw a little power just by being on.

The exact loss depends on your gear. The 85% below is an assumption for the example, not a spec. Look up your own inverter’s rating.

Worked example (arithmetic, not a measurement)

Say a power station is rated 500 Wh. Assume 85% efficiency through an inverter.

• Usable energy: 500 x 0.85 = 425 Wh
• Mini at 40 W: 425 / 40 = about 10.6 hours
• Mini at 25 W: 425 / 25 = 17 hours
• Standard 4 X at 100 W: 425 / 100 = about 4.3 hours
• Standard 4 X at 75 W: 425 / 75 = about 5.7 hours

The 500 Wh and 85% are made up for illustration. Real runs also depend on temperature, battery age, and how much the dish works. We have not measured this ourselves yet. Use the real watts at the wall for your dish and the real hours from your power station.

Want to plug in your own numbers? Use the solar runtime calculator.

DC powering options

For the Mini, the sheet lists two inputs:

• 12 to 48 V DC, 60 W. That is a direct DC feed, which skips the inverter and its losses.
• USB-C Power Delivery, 100 W (20 V / 5 A) minimum, using Starlink’s USB-C to barrel jack cable accessory.

The sheet does not discuss wire gauge, fusing, or how a 12 V battery behaves under load. We could not open Starlink’s help-center article on it. Follow Starlink’s current instructions and use the supplied parts where you can.

The Standard 4 X sheet lists an AC power supply. We found no DC input on that sheet. Running it from a battery means an inverter, or a power station with an AC outlet.

What a small power station can cover

• Check the output rating. The station’s continuous watts must exceed the dish’s draw, including any router and your laptop.
• Check the Wh. Do the formula above. A Mini fits a small station better than the Standard 4 X does, based on the sheets.
• Plan for a night. Overnight at 25 to 40 W for 8 hours is 200 to 320 Wh before losses. That is arithmetic, not a test.

What to do next

1. Run your own numbers in the calculator, using your battery’s label Wh.
2. Put a plug-in watt meter between the supply and the wall and record real draw.
3. Read your power station’s manual for output limits and for safe DC use.